COLUMN WRITTEN BY PHILLIP SILVERSTONE
For Digital First Media
For some unfathomable reason, there are still some amongst us who consider Prosecco, that wonderful Italian nectar with an abundance of “frizzante” — lovely, small, delicate bubbles that percolate to the top of your glass — a lightweight, easily dismissed, frivolous wine. They obviously haven’t tasted the 2 wines I recently enjoyed on a late August afternoon. And let me just point out that Prosecco used to be the name of the grape used for this enormously refreshing wine. However, 6 years ago, the Valdobbiadene region of northern Italy was awarded the highest Italian wine appellation status (DOCG) and it was decreed that the wines in this area would be called Prosecco and the grape variety would be known by it’s true name: Glera.
Bisol Cru Crede Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore D.O.C.G.(Approximately $25)
The Bisol family’s winery is located in Valdobbiadene, in the Veneto region of Italy. Bisol directly manages the entire wine-making process, and this wine is a marriage of 3 grapes: Glera, Verdiso and Pinot Bianco all grown on the steep hills of the Bisol Vineyards. The area’s subsoil of marine sandstone is known as “crede” which is ideal for these varietals to thrive. The wine has an incredibly light color similar to dried grass, which has been in the sunlight far too long. The scent of the wine reminds me of an herbaceous border in a small English garden and the taste is full of my old friend Granny Smith with a hint of Bartlett pear. This is an exquisite example of Prosecco with its enticing stream of bubbles, nowhere near as intense as champagne and sparkling wine, but with the grace and finesse of an Italian sparkling mineral water. In a class of its own.
Jeio Prosecco DOC (Approx: $17) is another wine from the Bisol family.
The current owners’ father, Desiderio Bisol, was called Jeio by his wife. And so the wine is a dedication to him. Not sure the names my wife calls me would ever appear on a bottle of wine … but I am digressing again. This wine is 100 percent Glera grapes grown on a pretty difficult terrain of 820 feet above sea level and the nectar that we eventually find in our glass has the same dried grass, yellowy-green coloring of the Bisol, with a clean, summer fruit fragrance and the familiar crisp, apple taste that one expects from a well made Prosecco wine.
Many of us have a tendency to add some rich fruit juices to Prosecco, especially peach, so we can fantasize about being in Harry’s Bar in Venice drinking a Bellini where Giuseppe Cipriani did indeed invent the splendid drink. However, that said, I would never dream of insulting this pair of Proseccos by adding anything but a sigh of satisfaction after a glass or two has been emptied down my throat. Cheers!
Phillip Silverstone’s column appears each week in this publication. “Time Out With Phillip Silverstone” is a weekly two-hour podcast heard exclusively on TuneIn radio anytime and anywhere worldwide either on the free TuneIn app for all smart phones and tablets (Search: Phillip Silverstone) or online on Tunein at: http://bit.ly/1gY2Ht4. “Follow” the show for weekly updates. You can also LIKE Phillip on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Phillipsilverstone and follow him on Twitter: @wining